Saturday, January 16, 2010

Annapurna Trek

It is hard to describe the effects of trekking on the bold and adventurous minds that endeavor in this pursuit. One may say it’s the depart from society, others the scenery of the mountain’s clean air and maybe a vast number of other well elaborated explanations to justify the benefits of walking those rough trail labyrinths that the great mountains provide, but it doesn’t matter, reasons apart trekking inspires the mind and challenges the body towards something which may not be described into words.

And from those millions of majestic trails that this worlds put a our disposal with great variety of sceneric beauty and physical challenges one may never question the high position the Annapurna Round Trip ranks among them being neither too strenuous, nor easy, It is a well balanced trek offering a good amount of physical exercise even for the most seasoned trekkers and indescribable views of this expressive massive of mountains. Amounted from 15 to 20 days of dawn to sunset walks the trail, squlmirshes thru more trac 200km which easily compress a great variety of habitats of the world. The Annapurna circuit is a micro ‘ Around the World’ In 15 days (despite what Julio Verne ‘ would say).

It is a journey thru lands time has forgotten With beautiful people whose costumes Mountain imposes haven’t changed for thou sand of years and of natural beauty that will move the most hardened heart.

Starting at the low altitude of 760 m at Besi Sahar, just a few KM from Pokhara, the pleasant warm climate and the easy going pretty much leveled walk surprise most trekkers, which, will realize after a short period of time he is walking thru a dense tropical forest not lest impressive than those of the South American countries. But this feeling will not last long too passing thru the villages of Bulbhule, Ngadi Bazar and Bahundanda which still in offer great comfort to the wanderer traveler which is still in the beginning or on the end (for those who attempt the circuit clockwise) of their journeys soon trek trek shows a littel bit more of its true nature.

As we ascend more, close to the village of Jagat, the climate starts to change, getting colder, however the tropical forest still manages to advance even In such harder conditions. Now the villages show a more austere look, resembling those of medieval times for long forgotten. Stone cottages and polished stone paths Illuminated by flashes coming from the tree tops are now a constant part of the mid-day walk. Following the Marsyangdi river bed we are still in Hindu land, which is easy to recognize by the Shiva’s and Pavarti’s beautiful adorned pictures of the tea house’s walls

Long 4 to 6 hour days now take a tool of the body, although the shoulders are already getting used to the 15 kg loads of the backpacks, the trek get steeper and before you can imagine the trees start to lose the greenness of the tropics acquiring a more brownish tone, We are now moving to Alpine lands.

The cold increases and spots of bare rock become frequent, steeper paths become longer and the days are more strenuous. However now nights are more delightful, the hardness of the day easily move the tired bodies to a drowsy slumber which fastly turns out to be comfortable sleep nights.

After a long rocky a breathless climb we reach a vast river plateau where you will find one of the treks Shangrila’s bathing in the mid afternoon sun,we reached Tal. This astonishing white sandy ground village right beside the river seems like just out of an European picture .

Its stone narrow streets sided by waist high stone walls in a labyrinth of righ wangles draws travelers to stay a while and admire its different beauty.

Now clearly on Alpine lands we ascend higher sharing the trail with a few other trekkers and plenty colorful adorned donkeys with full loads, taking city goods to the mountain dwellers (this sided by porters being the main mean to transport goods). Soon at Dharapani we turn left towards the right side of the Annapurna’s massive.

The views of these giants start to peck in between the tree leaves, first Lamjunr gives its grace. which seems out of the massive as a deserter, a 6.083 m bandit which abandoned its Annapurna’s companions, later we soon arrive at Feaswand this curious formation which puzzle anyone who might check the maps having almost perfectly curved level lines. Now just time separates us from clear views of Annapurna II ,III and IV which form the mountain chain the path side walk.

The region now acquires a Tibetan like air, for its dryness and cold just allow these well seasoned bold men adepts of Budism to dwell in its lands. Pituresque chortens appear on the way as we arrive at 3.540m Manang, the 1st stop to avoid AMS, this curious illness which haunts trekkers and climbers who attempt altitudes above 3,000m.

By now trekking mood has already rooted deep into one’s mind and few are those who spend their whole free day resting at the lodges rooms. Most trekkers either choose one of the interesting side trips to Milarepa’s cave and the two nearby ice lakes to fill in the need to hit the dirt path, or just wander around Manang’s narrow streets, admiring the Tibetan architecture and stopping at a nearby many wall to roll its prayer wishing good omen to the days to come.

Tree line is reached in the high altitude and soon left behind. Now its just bare rock path so covered by rough terrain and a few bushes. Early in the morning iced puddles and streams give a hint of what lies ahead.

View is breathtaking Annapurna II ,III and IV with its arms stretching thru the skies and jet streams casting mist and snow from Its tops make everyone take a break on walking to bewilder these wonders Another rest slop is required, on height of around 4 000m the air really rarefied being hard on our lungs, it is necessary to let the body adapt to this condition adverse to life however, it is not an unwelcomed halt for to lay on the shadow of these faints and watch the time go by is a trandescending experience Which words do not dare to describe.

Walking days become smaller due to the high altitude, and the last goal before crossing to the other side of the massive is reached– Thorong Phedi at 4,450m. One more rest day, now the heads pound faster and the dinning halls are never I empty, for no human being can help but share this exciting experience with its fellow men. Hours slowly pass by, the highest pass that can be crossed without mountaineering skills seems on the reach or our hands. Mountaineering dreams fill everyone’s minds during the few moments one can get some sleep, for now its 4 AM, and we are off in the dark towards Thorong La pass.

Some headlamps are feebly visible far away just in front of the shadows of those trekkers who started before. The route is sleep and full of pebbles, breathless out of excitement we move forward into the night. The moon casting its light over the help the headlamps on finding the way. -8 C the ground becomes softer and light increases it is still 5 AM but the snow under our feet reflects the moons shine so brightly that headlamps become almost of no use. Dawn arrives, the vast snow mounts, the cat walk path, the lack of air, everything is overwhelming, 5.416m, nobody talks, everyone is trapped in its own world too bewildered to utter a word, Thorong La has been reached.

Hugs, smiles into tired faces, many pictures are taken, the highest pass achived And the Annapurna round is only on its half. We are already astonished by it. What more could anyone expect? It is a hard way down, siperry icy paths and snow covered steep descent. Still 1000m to cover, the day becomes long, and finally we reach Mukithnath (3.760m) by late afternoon. More than 10 hours of walk since we left Thorong Phedi. It is time to celebrate ! But everyone is too tired and only a few hours are spent on party as everyone soon i retire to the rooms. Too much of a day, too much on the body and mind we fall sound asleep into the peaceful night.

At daybreak we now can figure out where we are everything has changed. Mustang valley is a dry desert like region on the other side of the massive light brown colors as far the eye can I see. The ground is just sand and rocks and only a few living plants dare to dwell in this hardened soil.

Some trekker take a day to rest in the sacred Budist Mukithnath, others follow their feet on the urge to reach lower grounds, now finally contemplating the other side of the Annapurnas.

The path follow the Kali Gandaki soon reaching Johnsom, constant wind blows sand out of the river bed, the climate is still cold and the trek shows that there is still more marvels to be unveiled.

This side of the Annapuran is a lot busier and better furnished with lodges and a great variety of conforts, but the even here the Circuit didn’t lose its charms as the trail moves from the apple orchards of Marpha towards orange land in Lamjung. Warmer lands are reached as we leave the Nepali Tibet behind, now Hindu and Budist people share villages on the way down.

For those who think the route has finished some surprises still are on the way Daulaghiri majestic appearance on the right side of the path opposite to the Annapurna .The corridor in between these giants is know as the deepest valley in the world (Aurn Valley) and it is here where we set foot towards the end of the trek.

But there Is stall time to enjoy the interesting distilleries of brandy in Tukuche. as well the most welcomed hot springs of Tatopani leading to the last of the great views of the giants at Poon Hill.

Tired but with a renewed spirit, seems like we traveled half world, thru Tropical forests, Alpine regions, desert sands. On the bus back to Pokhara reality and dreams are mixed together and no parallels are drawn on the 20 days journey around the world in the Annapurna Circuit.
Source:-Sahiho.Com

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